If all the color associations you get for the fall-winter season are black, grey and everything in between, get ready to be surprised. Vivetta and Angel Chen are among the brands giving a different perspective and we are glad to share some color-infused inspiration with you after having attended the shows.
At Vivetta colors were essential as the primary inspiration for the collection was the 1940s circus. The theme was made obvious in every possible way: from the embroideries depicting all kinds of performers you can imagine on the arena to “Pierrot” heels to curtain-inspired velvet garments and rope belts.
There was leopard printed fur, vinyl boots and velvet bringing in a thimbleful of aggressiveness, but it was no more than a slight touch, added to a feminine, even girly collection full of poplin, tulle, frills, laces, and dolly silhouettes.
The vibe at Angel Chen was totally different: while Vivetta’s young woman is a real lady, joyful in her trip with the circus, Chen’s protégé is an urban hood girl, ready to face all the challenges along her path.
Manifesting readiness for cool, strong, even boyish behavior, the designer makes the collection unisex, blending the border between the genders. At some points barely distinguishable, the boys and girls walked the runway like a tribe, making clear the inspiration of the season: “modern tribes”, for the definition of which Chen looked at the groups residing in African districts, Australia and New Zealand.
The tribal mood was modernized: along with woolen ponchos and African-like ornaments there were faux fur jackets, hoodies, metallic jackets and long coats, oversize silhouettes and heavy boots.
Even though both shows had a certain emphasis on color, further highlighted in the press releases, they were totally and undoubtedly different. While for the light girly feel one can turn to the babydoll dresses and embroidery of Vivetta, a more decisive and “hooligan” mood allows for the Lizard backpacks and the signature windbreakers by Angel Chen. Once again we get assured in the diversity offered by Milan Fashion Week, where anyone has means to join any journey, from travelling with the circus to blending with the African Asian tribe.
Ph.: Kseniia Task, Marie Motti, Elisa Grasso