It’s all about being a dwarf in a World of giants. It is how a freshman designer should feel. So, what to do? Find a stairway. And this is what You|Concept tries to be for new designers, organizing events like the press day held on November 10th.
You|Concept is a five month start-up offering fully integrated commercial and strategic PR services, in order to help brands to establish their voice in a highly competitive market. In particular, with its two headquarters, one in London and one in Milan, and its four sales campaigns bases – London, Milan, Paris and New York – it provides support to new start-ups, strategic placement and press office, events organisation and commercial services. Thus, a just started multiservice agency that helps new brands to gain their share in the fashion industry, providing growth both for them and for itself.
Well, at this point you might wonder: who are those freshmen?
“Hello, my name is Silvia Giovanardi and I’m a beauty enthusiast.” It is with this words that such a designer presents herself in her website. Silvia Giovanardi has launch her brand in 2014, after having worked for 5 years for Etro. What distinguish her collections is their continuity, not dealing with trends and seasons, the only use of organic fibers and the presence of handmade paintings on some garments, made by natural colours, not chemical ones. About her style, Vogue Italia reported her proper explanation: “My style reflects my cultural background, it is captivating because it is ironic, magnetic, curious, with a special focus on colour dynamics, fresh and brilliant décor that share a strong tailoring whose finishes show my passion for detailing.” Her aim is to make the difference in the fashion system: “Through my work, I intend to propose an actual lifestyle, a modus vivendi founded in the rediscovery of profound values, such as the respect for mother nature, its rhythm, its beauty and its wonderful gifts.”
Established by Luigi Calenza in 2015, such a brand has a very precise focus: becoming not only a fashionable company, but also a landmark for the current costumes and culture. The main influence for such a designer comes from the 80s-90s, from the Punk and Goth music, and what moves him is textile, material, development and production techniques innovation.
Vittorio Branchizio is a Made in Italy men’s knitwear brand born in 2014, using the finest natural fibers and latest technical knitting solutions. It was probably this that allowed his same-name designer to win the WHO IS ON NEXT? UOMO competition, supported by Pitti Immagine, Altaroma and L’Uomo Vogue. What characterize such a brand are design, advanced technology and refined yarns, combining traditional craftsmanship and high quality materials. About his S/S 2017 collection, “METAMORPHOSIS”, he says: “METAMORPHOSIS, intended as the transformation of a garment, is the name that I wanted to give my collection and installation. I have studied the effects, which are obtainable on fibers, focusing on two different techniques creating garments that could transform. The first is the overlapping of three cotton textures which feature woven floating silk linen and cotton yarns, while the second is a woven pattern composed of a thick yarn hemmed in an extra fine yarn.”
The scallywags, prize-fighters, allotment holders and last century’s American cinema icons inspired the brand that Sissi Goetze has developed since 2011, and renamed with its current name in Spring 2016. It has become a representative for progressive, yet classical Berlin menswear, which recognizable elements are the constriction of its hybrid sleeves, the development of meticulous details and a unique choice of fabric. It aims not to offer seasonal collection, but continuous and timeless men’s wardrobe.
Winner of WHO IS ON NEXT, PE 2011, Emiliano RInaldi became Creative Director of La Perla in 2014, experience that is still reflected in his woman’s S/S 2017 collection. In fact, his creations are seducing and very feminine, as a lingerie item should be. On the other hand, his man’s creations are more complex, with a high focus on materials. Graduating in engineering, he didn’t choose to become a designer, he said it was his calling: “I have always looked for harmony, beauty, sensitivity and sensuality in the people and things I encounter.”
Julian Zigerli started his eponymous brand in 2010, enjoying almost immediate success both locally and internationally, being nominated for the Design Preis Schweiz in 2011, 2013 and 2015 as well as for the Swiss Design Award, which he won three times, in 2012, 2014 and 2016. In 2014 he was invited by Giorgio Armani himself to show his collection “THE ONE AND ONLY” at the Armani Theatre during the Milan Fashion Week. Since three years his brand in one of the regulars at Paris Fashion Week. A second line with a non seasonal and unisex approach, “JULIAN ZIGERLI – ALL TIME FAVORITE”, was launched in 2015. His collections are made in Europe and he only uses Swiss fabrics and Italian leather. The S/S 2017 collection, “SORRY!” presents mainly unisex elements, with occasional more feminine ones, and both knitting and prints are present.
In addition to such designers, You¸ Concept exhibits in its troops also a books brand and a well established firm:
“Based in London, INHEDITED is the luxury supplier of choice for refined leather bound journals, diaries and books, selecting the best artisans, tanneries and papers to produce the highest quality products available in the UK, if not the world.” Such books are leather ones, realized with high quality materials, the same used by a brand such as Fendi, characterized by handmade pages and golden edges and rulers locking them. The final result is “a collection of manuscript books that combine the most prized materials with an unrivalled heritage devoted to extraordinary craftsmanship.”
A 1930’s Milanese brand dealing with textile production and wholesale of high quality fabrics, whose founder was the winner of the Forbici d’oro prize for being one of best tailors across Europe between 1951 and 1970. His son, Angelo Maestrelli, succeeded him, relocating the textile and producing office in Prato, serving as director/consultant for groups such as La Rinascente, Upim, Manifatture Marzotto Valdagno and Macquarie Textiles, and being awarded in Paris L’Epingle d’or. Nowadays, at the head of the firm there’s the grandson of the founder and his namesake. About the last collection, it is reported: “The Italian Alps surrounds “Bel-paese”, just like a fine necklace rests on a woman’s skin. This is the inspiration of the collection. A breathtaking landscape, once a theatre of fierce battles, that has managed to maintain its natural and majestic charm throughout the centuries. Concealed under its insurmountable figure lies innumerable secrets…”
Therefore, it is all about find a way to emerge or to stay in such a market, fostering crisp concepts and personal creative philosophies. So, stay turned, and see if these newcomers will be able to climb the Olympus of the Fashion World.
Article and original pictures by Laura Gaudioso