Chords of Trussardi.

The past weekend here wasn’t a piece of cake: Milan was rainy, grey and thus depressing. When weather turns to its dark side, there’s only one reason to leave home on Sunday, and every fashion addicted knows what it is. In spite of the raindrops attempting to ruin our hair, makeup and outfits, at 5PM we were running through the puddles in the direction of Palazzo Serbelloni to see Trussardi.

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The collection looks casual-chic, the colors are warm and very “fall”: beige, brown, grey, dark blue, shades of red and burgundy. Elegant silky garments coexist and blend with velvet, suede, wool and fur, creating the feel of countryside entering the big city world and looking not out of place, but essential and esthetically right. Fedora hats and slacks with knee-boots add an equestrian element to this mix.

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The theme of pop and rock music of 60s-70s, introduced by Gaia Trussardi for the F/W 2016-2017 menswear collection, was not abandoned fot the womenswear show. It was clearly present in certain looks, and also influenced the staging. The beautiful and talented musicians, whom we previously met and admired at the Trussardi F/W 2016-2017 menswear presentation (link to previous article) held in Pinacoteca di Brera, appeared on the runway at Palazzo Serbelloni, turning the fashion show to a live concert of a rock band. Of course, the accompaniment created the vibes different from what we normally experience at fashion shows, different in a nice and truly enjoyable way.

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After the show finished, we found ourselves fully immersed in its atmosphere and not at all ready for the gloomy streets and the way home. Instead, we joined the journalists, photographers and some spectators to go backstage.

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Seeing the show, we met the output of the long creative process, and going backstage was like going back in time: the moodboard showed the soul of the collection, its world, the roots from which it started.

The hangers with the garments were still there, as well as the stickers used to remind the models of some details. It was a remainder of the process happening at the heart of the catwalk while the guests only see a perfectly polished show; of course, a very small part, as 99% is nerve, mess and jumble of models, stylists and assistants.

Between the stands, notes and photographs we saw Gaia Trussardi, as she was interviewed. The BS4F team did not have a chance to talk to her as the reporters superseded each other asking her questions, but we did not hesitate to take memorable pics.

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As we returned to the runway, it felt empty and abandoned: the whole crowd was gone and there only were a few photographers waiting for celebs that still were backstage. We felt like it was time for us to leave as well, and after a bit of posing for farewell photographs reluctantly opened the umbrellas and went back to the rain. After the show the weather somehow seemed better than it had been before.

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Ksyusha Task

Ph.: Ksyusha Task, Pietro Morandini

 

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